20 PEDESTRIAN EXCURSION. CHAP.IL. obedience to our rule,and greater ease in de- fending it against attacks. 1st of June.-I left the ship at four o'clock in the morning,with Keppel and a small party, to attend Major C-,the principal magistrate, on an official tour of inspection throughout the island;we were rather late,so he had preceded us.We missed the better path,and had to scramble up the face of the steep and rather high mountain,-an effort which,after our four months' cruise,pumped all the breath out of our bodies. Fine green fern and rich grass clothed the entire surface,and would do capitally to fatten sheep and cattle.When we at last reached the summit, we could see the sea on both sides of the island, and a beautiful and heart-stirring sight was the bay below,in which foated our squadron,con- taining a portion of the brave band sent to invade the largest empire in the world. Half way down the narrow and precipitous valley,we saw our good friend the Major seated, Burrounded by some soldiers and Chinese servants waiting our approach.We accordingly made the best of our way,and found it no easy matter to stop our woay when our sea-accustomed legs had fairly gathered impetus.I think nothing is more painful than a rapid descent after a fagging
20 PEDESTRIAN EXCURSION. chap. It obedience to our rule, and greater ease in de fending it against attacks. 1st of June. —I left the ship at four o'clock in the morning, with Keppel and a small party, to attend Major C , the principal magistrate, on an official tour of inspection throughout the island ; we were rather late, so he had preceded us. We missed the better path, and had to scramble up the face of the steep and rather high mountain, —an effort which, after our four months' cruise, pumped all the breath out of our bodies. Fine green fern and rich grass clothed the entire surface, and would do capitally to fatten sheep and cattle. When we at last reached the summit, we could see the sea on both sides of the island, and a beautiful and heart-stirring sight was the bay below, in which floated our squadron, con taining a portion of the brave band sent to invade the largest empire in the world. Half way down the narrow and precipitous valley, we saw our good friend the Major seated, surrounded by some soldiers and Chinese servants waiting our approach. We accordingly made the best of our way, and found it no easy matter to stop our way when our sea-accustomed legs had fairly gathered impetus. I think nothing is more painful than a rapid descent after a fagging
CHAP.IL REVERENCE FOR THE AGED. 21 ascent;however,some cold tea the Major had in readiness quickly revived us,and on we pressed. A stream,as like a Highland burn as poseible, bounded over the rocka,leaving small basins at every turn until it reached an expanse of ground near the bottom of the valley,where its clear waters were turned into muddy paddy fields.The path now wound round a tongue of land to the left into a small dell,where there were a few houses built in a line.The patriarch and ruler of this community was standing foremost,ready to receive us.This universal custom of ac- knowledging the superiority of age has been recognised by us throughout the island;and it is agreeable to see so amiable a usage in practice among the most lawless orders of.the Chinese, which these islanders are.In this little village they were exclusively employed in agriculture. The road was shaded here and there by a spe- cies of Scotch fir common in Spain and Portugal; shrube of wild pomegranate,pine-apple,and the mangoe,but in no great abundance,grew by the sides of the several rivuleta.We walked eastward along the southern shore to Titam Bay,were it was once proposed our port should be;but al- though a considerable harbour,the south-west Monsoon raises a disagreeable swell,and might
chap. n. REVERENCE FOE THE AGED. 21 ascent ; however, some cold tea the Major had in readiness quickly revived us, and on we pressed. A stream, as like a Highland burn as possible, bounded over the rocks, leaving small basins at every turn until it reached an expanse of ground near the bottom of the valley, where its clear waters were turned into muddy paddy fields. The path now wound round a tongue of land to the left into a small dell, where there were a few houses built in a line. The patriarch and ruler of this community was standing foremost, ready to receive us. This universal custom of ac knowledging the superiority of age has been recognised by us throughout the island ; and it is agreeable to see so amiable a usage in practice among the most lawless orders of the Chinese, which these islanders are. In this little village they were exclusively employed in agriculture. The road was shaded here and there by a spe cies of Scotch fir common in Spain and Portugal ; shrubs of wild pomegranate, pine-apple, and the mangoe, but in no great abundance, grew by the sides of the several rivulets. We walked eastward along the southern shore to Titam Bay, were it was once proposed our port should be ; but al though a considerable harbour, the south-west Monsoon raises a disagreeable swell, and might
22 CHUCK-NI-WAN. CHAP.II. when it blew hard,be difficult for ships to work out against. At the head of this bay,the principal village, Chuck-ni-wan,is situated,-a great resort for fishing-junks,which are generally manned by the most lawless ruffians.The unprotected inhabitants frequently suffer from their depredations. As this village was the post of importance,the magistrate assumed all his dignity,and paraded all his power.He marched in front;we,the gueste, followed,and the soldiers and servants brought up the rear.The little children stood with their fingers in their mouths as we passed;the men looked stupid,and the women inquisitive;and thus on we went.But,unfortunately,the road was narrow;houses to the left,the sea close at hand to the right,and at a corner,tied by a rope from a post to an iron ring through its nostrils, stood a small wild mountain cow,which,as soon as we approached,by a vigorous onset broke its tether,and charged straight for the proper person of the magistrate,who made the best use of his activity for some distance,and at last,by an agile leap over an aloe hedge,planted himself in an old woman's garden,-the owner,I believe,of the frantic beast,-who,losing sight of the Major's judicial dignity,only remembered the trouble likely to attend the recovery of her cow,and gave
22 CHUCK-NI-WAN. chap. ii. when it blew hard, be difficult for ships to work out against. At the head of this bay, the principal village, Chuck-ni-wan, is situated, —a great resort for fishing-junks, which are generally manned by the most lawless ruffians. The unprotected inhabitants frequently suffer from their depredations. As this village was the post of importance, the magistrate assumed all his dignity, and paraded all his power. He marched in front ; we, the guests, followed, and the soldiers and servants brought up the rear. The little children stood with their fingers in their mouths as we passed; the men looked stupid, and the women inquisitive; and thus on we went. But, unfortunately, the road was narrow; houses to the left, the sea close at hand to the right, and at a corner, tied by a rope from a post to an iron ring through its nostrils, stood a small wild mountain cow, which, as soon as we approached, by a vigorous onset broke its tether, and charged straight for the proper person of the magistrate, who made the best use of his activity for some distance, and at last, by an agile leap over an aloe hedge, planted himself in an old woman's garden, —the owner, I believe, of the frantic beast, — who, losing sight of the Major's judicial dignity, only remembered the trouble likely to attend the recovery of her cow, and gave
CHAP.IL IMPROVEMENTS AT HONG-KONG. 23 it him with the ability and heartiness of all old women of every country,when they are inclined to vituperate.We did not visit the elders this time,but passed on to the bed of a mountain tor- rent,well shaded with trees,where we found a sub- stantial breakfast ready prepared. After a siesta for a couple of hours,our portion of the party shook hands with Major C-, and followed a guide on our return home.We ascended a sufficiently steep hill to the summit, and here the north side presented a bank of brush- wood descending to a level,called the "Happy Valley,"spread over with paddy fields,except at certain spots where there were cottages sur- rounded by indifferent gardens.A good road is in progress of construction along the shore,and a cut of some depth through an intervening hill is nearly completed.We were surprised to see wharfe and foundations for extensive storehouses laid with a fine grey granite,and wrought with a finish that would reflect credit upon a London mason.They were private property. It is the general opinion that when the mer- chants make Hong-Kong their place of residence, it will,being a free port,attract the shipping of all nations,and consequently transfer the prin- cipal trade from Macao,and the Chinese will then become the carriers to and from Canton
CHAP. IL IMPROVEMENTS AT HONG-KONG. 23 it him with the ability and heartiness of all old women of every country, when they are inclined to vituperate. We did not visit the elders this time, but passed on to the bed of a mountain tor rent, well shaded with trees, where we found a sub stantial breakfast ready prepared. After a siesta for a couple of hours, our portion of the party shook hands with Major C and followed a guide on our return home. We ascended a sufficiently steep hill to the summit, and here the north side presented a bank of brush wood descending to a level, called the " Happy Valley," spread over with paddy fields, except at certain spots where there were cottages sur rounded by indifferent gardens. A good road is in progress of construction along the shore, and a cut of some depth through an intervening hill is nearly completed. We were surprised to see wharfs and foundations for extensive storehouses laid with a fine grey granite, and wrought with a finish that would reflect credit upon a London mason. They were private property. It is the general opinion that when the mer chants make Hong-Kong their place of residence, it will, being a free port, attract the shipping of all nations, and consequently transfer the prin cipal trade from Macao, and the Chinese will then become the carriers to and from Canton
24 CHINESE BOAT-WOMEN. CHAP.IL Early on the 3d,I made one of a party that went in the H.C.S.Hoogly to Macao.Our course lay between islands and past headlands not differing in feature from the Lema islands, Upon almost every projecting promontory,fisher- men's huts were built,and a bamboo windlass fastened to heave up large square nets spread upon stretchers or beams.They were worked much upon the principle of a drawbridge;the inner ends moored by anchora,the outer fastened to the ropes round the windlass,which lowered them down or hove them up at pleasure. After a longer passage than we expected,we sighted Macao and the shipping in the outer roadstead.Our small draught of water enabled us to anchor close to the shore,when we were in an instant surrounded by squat,oval-bottomed punts,pulled by specimens of the fair sex.The Chinese woman utters a clacking sound peculiar to herself,and employs her tongue with a volu- bility and a perseverance impossible to surpass. These jays-these unplumed paroquets-lauded the qualities of their respective barks,and de- preciated those of their companions,until we were but too glad to stop their clamour by becoming their customers. The bay opposite the town forms a creacent; a handsome causeway girds the shore,and protects Google
24 CHINESE BOAT-WOMEN. chap. n. Early on the 3d, I made one of a party that went in the H. C. S. Hoogly to Macao. Our course lay between islands and past headlands not differing in feature from the Lema islands. Upon almost every projecting promontory, fisher men's huts were built, and a bamboo windlass fastened to heave up large square nets spread upon stretchers or beams. They were worked much upon the principle of a drawbridge; the inner ends moored by anchors, the outer fastened to the ropes round the windlass, which lowered them down or hove them up at pleasure. After a longer passage than we expected, we sighted Macao and the shipping in the outer roadstead. Our small draught of water enabled us to anchor close to the shore, when we were in an instant surrounded by squat, oval-bottomed punts, pulled by specimens of the fair sex. The Chinese woman utters a clacking sound peculiar to herself, and employs her tongue with a volu bility and a perseverance impossible to surpass. These jays —these unplumed paroquets —lauded the qualities of their respective barks, and de preciated those of their companions, until we were but too glad to stop their clamour by becoming their customers. The bay opposite the town forms a crescent ; a handsome causeway girds the shore, and protects