Surface waves(表面波)： Water wave breaks when it approach the beach
Surface waves（表面波）: Water wave breaks when it approach the beach
The function for sinusoidal wave: 4o时 (x±ut)+p] Where means waves travel left; means waves travel right with speed u
( ) ] 2 ( , ) cos[ y x t A x ut The function for sinusoidal wave: Where + means waves travel left; - means waves travel right with speed u
Some concepts about waves: Amplitude(振幅)：the maximum displacement that a particle can make in the medium. Peak and Valley(波峰与波谷)： Wavelength(波长)：the minimum distance between any identical point along the direction of wave propagation Period(周期)：the period of the particle in oscillation
Some concepts about waves: Amplitude(振幅）: the maximum displacement that a particle can make in the medium. Peak and Valley(波峰与波谷）: Wavelength（波长）:the minimum distance between any identical point along the direction of wave propagation Period（周期）：the period of the particle in oscillation
Frequency(频率)：the number of peaks(valleys)that pass a given point in a unit time interval. Angular frequency: Angular wave number: 2元 2π 0= k= T Speed of waves:the distance that waves travel in unit time. y=
Speed of waves: the distance that waves travel in unit time. T 1 T k u Frequency（频率）:the number of peaks (valleys) that pass a given point in a unit time interval. Angular frequency: T 2 Angular wave number: 2 k