Key terms: sea arch(海穹) sea stack(海蚀柱) marine cliff(海蚀崖) narine erosion(marine abrasion)海蚀
Key terms: sea arch（海穹） sea stack（海蚀柱） marine cliff（海蚀崖） marine erosion（marine abrasion）海蚀
下沉古海岸第·十 现代海岸第 上升古海岸聚 上升的海岸阶地 海蚀崖 水下岸坡 1潮间第 海岸 少海触穴 平均潮而一 低潮面一 现代阶垃 现代阶地 海滩 下沉的海成阶地 Topography of coast zone The area in which modern sea and land are interacting with each other
Topography of coast zone The area in which modern sea and land are interacting with each other
一、影响海岸形成的动力作用 (Dynamic forces influencing the formation of coast) 波浪，潮汐，海流，河流 (一)波浪(Wave) 1.波浪形成和水质点运动 动力：风，海底地震，海底火山等 风的作用和水质点运动：
一、影响海岸形成的动力作用 波浪, 潮汐, 海流, 河流 (一) 波浪 (Wave) 1. 波浪形成和水质点运动 动力: 风,海底地震, 海底火山等 风的作用和水质点运动: (Dynamic forces influencing the formation of coast)
波浪传播方向， ·2.波浪要素 —被浪中舰 皮高) 波胸间 被长 波的周期T),波速(C)》 图12-2波浪要素（引自杨景春，1988） Wavelengtn(m) 0 100200300400500630 C=L/T 306 278 250 35 3 60 波峰线 14 166 11.0 13 28 The relationship between C and L 00 Wavelength(t) 风速大，H大，L大，C大，传得远 FIGURE 10.7 The theoretical relationship among speed,wavelength. and penod in deep-water waves.Speed is equal to wavelength divided by period.If one characterstic of a wave can be measured,then the other two can be calculated.The easiest characteristic to measure exactly is pe rod.In the eample shown in red.the speed of a wave with a wavelength of 233 meters and a period of 12 seconds is 19.4 meters per second
▪ 2. 波浪要素 波高(H), 波长(L), 波的周期(T), 波速 (C) 波峰线 C = L / T 风速大，H大，L大， C大，传得远 The relationship between C and L
3波浪的能量 风淡，海啸等的波长，速度 Table 10.1 Wavelength,Disturbing Forces,and Restoring Forces for Ocean Waves Wave Type Typical Wavelength Disturbing Force Restoring Force Capillary wave Up to 1.73 cm(0.68 in.) Usually wind Cohesion ofwater molecules Wind wave 60-150m(200-500ft) Wind over ocean Gravity Seiche Large,variable;a function Change in atmospheric Gravity of ocean basin size pressure,storm surge, tsunami Seismic sea 200km(125mi) Faulting of seafloor, Gravity wave (tsunami) volcanic eruption, landslide Tide Half Earth's circumference Gravitational attraction, Gravity rotation of Earth E =KhL=P8 h21
E K h L g h L 2 2 8 1 8 1 = = E K h L g h L 2 2 8 1 8 1 = = 3. 波浪的能量 风波,海啸等的波长,速度