D. Add-On E. Extenders 167 V. REPELLENT FINISHING WITH FLUOROCHEMICALS A. Rainwear 168 B. Stain and Soil Retardancy 169 1. Upholstery Anti- Soil Finishes 169 VI. CARPET ANTI SOIL TREATMENTS .170 A. Fluorochemical Finishes .170 B. Other Carpet Antisoil Treatments .170 1. Light-Scattering Fibers 170 B. Stain blockers ,,,171 CHAPTER 10 SOIL-RELEASE FINISHES . SOILS A. How Fabrics are Soiled 173 II. SOIL REMOVAL ,,,173 A. Particulate soil .,,,173 B. Oily Soils ,,173 1. Roll-up mechanism 174 2. Roll-up Thermodyamics 174 III. SOIL RELEASE CHEMICALS ,177 A. Acrylic Soil Release Finishes 177 1. Polymethacrylic Acid PMAA 177 2. Methacrylic Acid- Ethyl Acrylate Co-Polymers 178 a. Mechanism 179 3. Practical Considerations and Fabric Properties .,179 D. Dual Action Fluorochemical Soil Release 180 1. Composition of Polyme 180 2. Mechanism 181 2. Practical Considerations and Fabric Properties 182 E. Hydrophilic Soil-Release Finishes for 100 Polyester 182 1. Polyoxyethylene Co- Polymers 2. Sulfoisophthalic Acid Co- Polymers 183 3. Practical Considerations and Fabric Properties 184 V. OTHER IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS 184 A. Non-Ionic Detergents 184 B. Soil Release Tests .,185 1. AATCC Method 130 185 2. Release Point 186 a. Rp Determinations b. Application of Rp Measurements 187 3. Geometry of Yarns and Fabrics
CHAPTER 11 FLAME RETARDANT FINISHES 189 I THEORY OF COMBUSTION 190 II. COMBUSTION OF CELLULOSE 191 III. FLAME RETARDANCY A. Feedback Mechanism B. Char Formation 195 1. Reactions Leading to Char Formation 196 C. How Certain Elements Work 1. Boron Phosphorus and Nitrogen 196 3. Halogens 197 IV. FLAME RETARDANT CHEMICALS AND PROCESSES FOR CELLULOSE 198 A. Non- Durable 198 1. Boric Acid/Borax 198 2. Diammonium Phosphate and Phosphoric Acid.... 198 3. Sulfamic Acid and Ammonium Sulfamate 198 B. Durable 198 1. Tetrakis(hydroxymethylPhosphonium Derivatives..198 a. Tetrakis(hydroxymethyL)phosphonium Chloride (THPC) 199 b. THPC-Urea Precondensate 199 c. Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium Hydroxide THPOH 200 N-Methyloldimethyl Phosphonopropioamid (PYROVATEX CP 200 3. Fyrol 76 200 4. Antiblaze 77 201 5. Phosphonic and Phosphoric Acid Derivatives 201 V. RETARDANT SYSTEMS FOR SPECIFIC FIBERS 201 A. Rayon Additives 201 1. Thiophosphate(SANDOFLOM 5060) 202 2. Decabromodiphenyl Oxide(DBDPO)and Antimony Oxideo2 202 B. Polyester 202 1. Decabromodiphenyl Oxide(DBDPo) 203 Tris-(2, 3-Dibromopropyl) Phosphate ( TRIS) 203 3. Antiblaze 19T 203 C. Nylon 204 1. Thiourea- Urea- Melamine 20 2. Halogenated Systems D. Polyester /Cotton Blend 204 1. Deca bromodiphenyl Oxide- Antimony Oxide 204 XvIl
E. wool 205 1. Dyebath Exhaustible Finishes 205 Chlorendic Acid and Tetrabromophthalic 205 b. Titanium Comple c. Hexafluoro-Zirconates 205 VII. FLAMMABILITY TESTS 206 CHAPTER 12 OTHER FINISHES 209 I. ANTIPILL FABRIC FINISHING 209 A. Mechanism of Pilling .209 1. Pill Formatio 2. Pill Build 210 B. Factors Affecting Pill Formation 210 1. Fiber Variables 210 a. Denier of Synthetic Fibe 210 b. Fiber Tenacity 210 2. Yarn Variables 211 211 b. Hairy Yarns 211 Yarn Spinning Method 211 3. Fabric Construction C. Preparation and Dyeing D. Fabric Finishing 211 1. Film Forming Binders 212 2. Durable Press Reactants 212 3. Fabric Softeners 212 4. Singing and Shearing 212 5. Heat-setting E. Summary I L. ANTISTATIC FINISHES 214 A. Causes of Static 214 B. Problems Caused by Static Electricity 214 D. Mechanism of Control 215 1. Static eliminators 2. Antistatic Agent 3. Fiber Polymer Modification 216 E. Non- Durable Antistatic Agents 216 1. Cationic Materials 217 2. Non-Ionic Materials 217 F. Durable antistatic Finishes 217 1. Composition 218 XvIll
CHAPTER 13 MECHANICAL FINISHING . COMPACTING. SHRINKPROOFING 219 A. Why Fabrics Shrink 219 B. Sanforizer 220 1. Compactor Head 222 B. Friction Calendar Compactors C. Overfeed Pin Tentering II. CALENDARING 226 of calendars 227 1. Swizzing Calendars 227 2. Chasing Calendars .227 3. Friction Calendars 229 4. Compaction Calendar 229 5. Embossing Calendar 229 6. Schreiner Calendar 230 B. Construction of the rolls 230 1. Pattern roll 30 2. Bowls 3. Crowning 4. Auxiliary Equipment 232 IIL. RAISING ueaing 232 1. Multi-Cylinder Sueders 2. Single Cylinder Sueder 3. Abrasive Covered rolls 4. Advantages and Disadvantages 234 235 235 a. Double Acting Nappers. 235 b. Knit Goods Napper 236 Acting N IV. SHEARING 239 A. Shearers 239 V. POLISHING 241 VII. CORDUROY CUTTER VIIL DECATING A. Semi- Decati B. Continuous Decating 244
PART I FABRIC PREPARATION The term"Preparation"has two implications in textile processing. In greige manufacturing, it is used to describe the processes which prepare yarns for weaving and knitting. Mostly, it is used to describe slashing operations that ready warp yarns for weaving. In dyeing and finishing, the term is used to describe those processes that ready fabrics for the steps that follow, coloration and finishing. Fabric preparation is the first of the wet processing steps where greige fabric is converted into finished fabric. The steps that follow, dyeing or printing and finishing, are greatly influenced by how the fabric is prepared. Improper preparation is often the cause of problems encountered in the dyeing and finishing steps. Wet processing technical conferences nearly al ways have sessions that stress the importance of fabric preparation, seldom is there a conference without topics on how to prepare specific fabrics. There are many different fabrics, many different plant set-ups and many different machines used in wet processing. There is no universally accepted best method for each of the wet processing steps. Nonetheless every set-up is expected to and more often than not, accomplish the same goals. To deal with this seemingly infinite number of permutations, a fundamental understanding of what happens at each step and how to control the chemical and physical parameters becomes paramount The discussions that follows will deal with all of the specific steps that encompass fabric preparation. Fundamental chemical and physical concepts will be stressed. It is important for the reader to understand that not all fabrics undergo each of the steps: however, a specific fabric will be routed through those steps that are necessary to end up with a thoroughly prepared fabric. Chapter 1 will discuss the equipment used to prepare warp yarns, and the equipment used to prepare fabrics for dyeing and finishing, Chapter 2. will cover the chemistry. In wet processing it is generally recognized that the steps encompassing preparation are Singeing: A process where loose fibers and fuzz is burned eld a clear and clean fabric surface a Desizing: A process where warp size is removed Scouring: A process where mill and natural dirt, waxes and grease e remove
PART I FABRIC PREPARATION The term "Preparation" has two implications in textile processing. In greige manufacturing, it is used to describe the processes which prepare yarns for weaving and knitting. Mostly, it is used to describe slashing operations that ready warp yarns for weaving. In dyeing and finishing, the term is used to describe those processes that ready fabrics for the steps that follow, coloration and finishing. Fabric preparation is the first of the wet processing steps where greige fabric is converted into finished fabric. The steps that follow, dyeing or printing and finishing, are greatly influenced by how the fabric is prepared. Improper preparation is often the cause of problems encountered in the dyeing and finishing steps. Wet processing technical conferences nearly always have sessions that stress the importance of fabric preparation, seldom is there a conference without topics on how to prepare specific fabrics. There are many different fabrics, many different plant set-ups and many different machines used in wet processing. There is no universally accepted best method for each of the wet processing steps. Nonetheless every set-up is expected to, and more often than not, accomplish the same goals. To deal with this seemingly infinite number of permutations, a fundamental understanding of what happens at each step and how to control the chemical and physical parameters becomes paramount. The discussions that follows will deal with all of the specific steps that encompass fabric preparation. Fundamental chemical and physical concepts will be stressed. It is important for the reader to understand that not all fabrics undergo each of the steps: however, a specific fabric will be routed through those steps that are necessary to end up with a thoroughly prepared fabric. Chapter 1 will discuss the equipment used to prepare warp yarns, and the equipment used to prepare fabrics for dyeing and finishing, Chapter 2. will cover the chemistry. In wet processing it is generally recognized that the steps encompassing preparation are: Singeing: A process where loose fibers and fuzz is burned away to yield a clear and clean fabric surface. Desizing: A process where warp size is removed. Scouring: A process where mill and natural dirt, waxes and grease are removed. 1