33 C. Fatty Acids 33 Saturated Fatty Acids Unsaturated Fatty Acids III. SOURCES A. Vegetable Sources 34 Castor oil 35 Coconut Oil Corn Oil Cottonseed Oil 35 Olive Oil 35 Palm Oil 35 Linseed oil 35 Tall oil B arberry wax Japan wa B. Animal Sources 36 Tallow 36 36 Whale oil C. Chemical Wax 1. Fatty Alcohols a. Sources of Fatty Alcohols D. Mineral wax 1. Paraffin 2. Microcrystalline Wax E. Synthetic Wax Fatty Acids Fatty Alcohols 338888888 Polyethylene Glycols.. PEG Esters III. SOLVENT SCOURING A. Advantages and disadvantages B. Common Solvents 1. Solvent Properties 40 Boiling Point Specific Heat Latent Heat of Evaporation 40 2. Non-flammable solvents 41 IV. AQUEOUS SCOURING 41 A. Typical Formulation for Scouring Specific Fibers 1. Cotton a. Batch Scouring Procedure_ 42 b. Continuous Scouring Procedure
2. Wool a. Wool Raw Stock Scouring 3. Silk 43 4. Blend 44 Cotton 44 ayon 44 Wool Acetate Polyester B. Test for Effective Scouring 44 1. AATCC Test Method Number 79 44 V. WATER AS A RAW MATERIAL 44 A. Water Softening 1. Lime Soda Process 2. Cation Exchange 3. Sequestration or Chelation VI CLASSES OF SEQUESTERING AGENTS A. Polyphosphates 5555666 1. Formation of Polyphosphates 2. Important Polyphosphates 46 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate(TSPP) 4 (Tripoly)sodium phosphate (TSP) 46 Sodiumhexameta phosphate 3. Advantages of Inorganic Phosphates B. Organophosphonic Acids 666 1. Ethylenediaminetetra(methylenephosphonicAcid) EDTMP a. Advantages and Disadvantages: 47 C. Aminocarboxylic Acids 47 1. Disodium.Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid EDta) 47 a. Advantages and Disadvantages: 47 2. Nitrilotriacetic Acid (NTA) 47 D. Hydroxycarboxylic Acids 47 a. Advantages and Disadvantages: 47 VII. FORMATION OF COMPLEXES A. Formation Constant 48 VII. SURFACTANTS A. Physical Chemistry of surfactant Solutions B. Surface Tension C. Critical Micelle Concentration 50 IX. CLASSIFICATION OF SURFACTANTS 51 A. By Use 51 Wetting Agents Detergents
Emulsifying Agents Dispersing Agents B. By Ionic Cha 52 Anioni 52 n-lonac amphoteric X. NONIONIC SURFACTANTS Ethoxylates 52 1. Typical Hydrophobe 2. Water Solubility of Ethoxylated Nonylphenol 3. Cloud Point 4. Hydrophilic-Lyophilic Balance (HlB) 54 Structure of eth ted nonylphenol 55 b. Effect of Ethylene Oxide on Solubility Balance 4. Performance Wetting Ti 56 b. De 57 XI. ANIONIC SURFACTANTS 57 A. Chemical Classification of Anionic Surfactants 57 1. Soaps 2. Sulfonates a. Alkylaryl Sulfonates b. Sulfosuccinates 58 d. Sulfoethylamides 3. Sulfates a. Sulfated alcohols b. Sulfated ethoxylated alcohols 4. Phosphate esters 58 Monoesters and diesters 58 XII. CATIONICS CHAPTER 4 BLEACHING I. MAJOR BLEACHING AGENTS II. SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE 61 A. Bleaching Mechanism B. Effect of pH C. Effect of Time and Temperature D. Effect of Metals E. Antichlor
F. Us G. Typical Batch Procedure Formulation b. Bleach Cycle: III. HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 63 A. Mechanism B. Effect of 64 C. Effect of Time and Temperature D. Stabilizers 1. Sodium Silicates 2.O Stabili 65 3. Phosphat E. US F. Typical Bleaching Procedures 1. Batch a. Bath Formulation 666 b. Bleach Cycle 2. Continuous Bath Formulation b. Bleach Cycle ⅣV. SODIUM CHLORITE 666 A. Effect of pH 67 B. Bleaching Mechanism 67 C. Effect of Temperature 67 V. OTHER OXIDATIVE BLEACHES A. Persulfates B. Perborates and Percarbonates C. Peracetic Acid V. REDUCTIVE BLEACHES 6668 A. Sulfur Dioxide B. Sodium Dithionate(Sodium Hydrosulfite) VIL. TEST FOR DEGREE OF BLEACHING A. Whiteness B. Fluidity VIIL. OPTICAL BRIGHTENERS 70 A. Stilbene Type OBA 71 CHAPTER 5 OTHER PROCESSES 72 I. MERCERIZING A. Chain Mercerizing 73 1. Procedure 73 2. Points of Concern and Control 74 B. Caustic Concentration Units
C. Test for Mercerization 1. Barium Number D. Mercerizing Fiber Blends 1. Polyester/Cotton 76 2. Cotton/Rayon 76 E. Yarn Mercerizing 76 F. Chainless Mercerizing II. SINGEING A. Points of Control 77 III. CARBONIZING OF WOOL 77 HEAT SETTING A. Points of Concern 78 PART II FABRIC FINISHING 80 chAPTER 6 MECHANICAL ASPECTS OF CHEMICAL FINISHING I. FINISH APPLICATORS 81 A. Padder 1. Location of Padded Liquid 82 B. Vacuum Slots 83 1. Advantages of Vacuum Slot 84 C. Kiss rolls Factors Affecting Wet Pick-Up D. Engraved Roll Applicator E. Foam Applicators 86 1. Knife Coaters 87 2. Horizontal Pad 3. FFT Applicator F. Location of One-Sided Applied Finishes II. DRYING AND CURING 90 A. Migration 90 III. DRYERS AND OVENS A. Dry cans 91 B. Roller ovens 92 C. Loop Ovens 92 D. Tenter frames 93 E. Other Dryers CHAPTER 7 DURABLE PRESS FINISHES 97 . WHY FABRICS WRINKLE